The Motley Cow    - review by Christine Schrum

I’ve been a fan of the Motley Cow Café since Iaccidentally stumbled upon the cozy venue in December of 2003, on my birthday.A friend and I had just witnessed Washington, Iowa’s annual Live Christmaspageant (replete with braying donkeys, King Herrod’s torch-bearing army,and a flying human angel), and were roaming the streets of Iowa City in searchof warm, tasty food—and a sanity check. We found both in the Cow.

Perhaps it was the savory yam paté that did the trick, or thefresh, finely seasoned salmon. Maybe it was the hot apple crisp topplingwith homemade vanilla ice cream. But either way, the food was downrightsoul restoring. Like good old-fashioned mom’s cooking—butafter she’d memorized a dozen or so gourmet cookbooks.

Today, more than six years after original owner Tom Lally first openedthe restaurant’s doors, the Motley Cow does a bustling businesssix nights a week. Current owner and head chef David Wieseneck serveselegant, sumptuous soul food with international overtones and an emphasison fresh, organic, and local. On a chilly Friday night in March, myfriend Sarah and I decide to treat ourselves to the full Motley experience.

A Cozy Café

It’s the first night of spring break, so the restaurant is comfortablybusy, but not frenetic. Typically, I find out later, traffic tendsto be much higher and reservations are a wise idea. But for the evening,Sarah and I are happy to share the candlelit café with a slowbut steady stream of couples and friends.

The ambiance is both casual yet chic. Small paintings and framed mirrorsline the walls. White Christmas lights glow above the two bay windowslooking out onto Market Street and passersby. A large, Marimekko-esquepainting of flowers hangs next to the counter, and mismatched woodentables and chairs populate the retro linoleum floor.

The small restaurant has a homey, lived-in feel, yet it possessesunderstated elegance. Which only becomes more apparent once the food is presented.

Motley Cow Cafe owner and chef David Weiseneck serves affordable gourmetfare with an emphasis on fresh, organic, and local. (Photo by Lin Mullenneaux)